Photos and instructions for blacksmithing projects.

Repairng an old Hay Budden anvil

A 122 lb Hay Budden in need of repair

Start by grinding into the rusty broken edges

As hard as it is to do, keep grinding until where ever you weld is shiny

This section near the table had a very deep place

Deep place now shiny

Switch to a sanding pad and get rid of the rust along the edges of where you will weld, this helps the puddle "bleed" over

First and second tig welded passes made with a S7 rod. All the welding done will be with the tig and with S7

Third pass on top

Fourth pass on side

Good view of built up edge

Switch to a grinding wheel and start grinding. Avoid tipping the wheel up on edge, this may leave deep marks that are hard to remove and still remain flat. Switch to new wheels frequently, this helps the job go faster

Radius the front half to your liking as you grind

The back half is where I like to cut off stock with a hot cut so this edge needs more building up to be sharp

Welded edge

Ground to almost flush

Getting close...


finally flush!!!

Switch back to sanding pad and remove the grinding marks

To show how hard the edge is, I will tap on the corner with a piece of square cold rolled bar

See the dents in the bar but none on the anvil. S7 does a really good job

Although the anvil will work well now, I'm not satified with the side, it still needs more S7

More S7 added

After ginding and sanding the added weld, switch to a scoth brite wheel to give the anvil a general all over cleaning

The other side would have worked fine but I decided to add S7 to the area where I use the hot cut

Done welding and all sanded and ready to paint

I found a nice block to set it on

Old anvil - $150.00, S7 rods $48.00, doing it yourself - Priceless

Neat update on this anvil story. I had never seen one with two pritchel holes and thought somebody had added it. Nor had I seen a half of a┬átable and thought that same somebody had ground half of it away. But thanks to Doug Brown (a fellow that happened apon the website) he sent me a picture of an almost identical anvil owned by his Grandfather. His pictures shows that the two pritchel holes were meant to be there and the “half table”┬áthat I thought had been ground off was actually never there to begin with…instead the side that had the table had once stuck out further and had been ground off. Learn something everyday.







I made this bell stand for a good friend and customer Dr. Sugg of Snow Hill, NC.

Pictures Dr. Sugg brought of the type of mounting stand he wanted.

The distance between the gudgeons on the yoke is narrower than the bell's mouth and was made for mounting to a horse shoe shaped bracket on a pole or post. This made making a conventional pair of straight stand legs impossible because the bell's mouth would hit the legs as it swung back and forth.

After some preliminary guesses at measurements I cut out a pattern from folded cardboard at the wood working bandsaw.

Bending the pattern in the middle shows how I can have the bearings atop the legs stick inward over the bell's mouth while the rest of the leg is swept back to give room for the bell to swing.

Laid out on a piece of 1/4" plate ready to be torched out.



more grinding.

To give the effect of a cast piece, I weld several beads onto the edges of the cut out image with a wire welder.

Smooth up the edges and knock off the spatter with a grinder.

Welding has warped the leg so I straighten it on the anvil.

To form the main lip of the leg to the curves I gently bend a piece of 1/4" by 1 1/2" between the jaws of the vise.

Looks good.

The material for the lip was left long and now needs to be cut off to length and to the angle that the entire leg will be bent to.

I cut the lip a little long the first time to see if it will match up with the other lip that goes on the other side of the leg.

With both lips matched up I weld them in place.

Heating and bending the entire leg.

I do not wish the cross member of the leg to but stuck out like the bearing will be so I sever it in order to be straightened back.


Straighten back

Heat and straighten other side, see how they overlap

Cut the overlaped pieces on the metal cutting bandsaw together. This will give you just the saw blade kerf to weld up.

A better view

Bring the two pieces so the are in line with each other and tack in place then weld back together.

With both legs made I stand them on the welding table to get an idea of how long to make the base plates they will weld to.

I also use this chance to torch a half round shape where the bearings will sit. This looks ragged but will be refined with a grinder.

The bearings are made of some thick wall tubing cut to length and faced on the lathe.

A shaft the size of the ID of the tubing is placed through both bearings and leveled with the table and tacked in place. This ensures when they are spread apart they are at the same heigth .

With the bearings at the proper distance apart for the gudgeons, the shaft is place back in the bearings for alignment and the legs are tacked to the base plates.

One bearing has to be split to allow the gudgeon with the rope lever to be placed. For ease of moving and instalation this will be left off and be epoxied back on after the bell has been installed at Dr Sugg's home.

The first test fit, seems to be fine.

I double prime the stand using different color primer to ensur I get everywhere.

A trick to make the piece look cast is to throw sand on the wet primer.

Bell painted black and stand painted whits.

See the effect of the sand.

The completed stand.






















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